Understanding the Fast Fashion Model

Fast Fashion is a business model that offers consumers frequent novelty in low-priced, trend-led products. The model relies on occurring consumption and impulse buying, creating a "sense of urgency when purchasing" (Bailey 2022).

The Fast Fashion Industry experienced tremendous growth during the late 20^th century, at a time when the manufacturing of clothing became less expensive, mainly due to more efficient supply chains and the increasing reliance on low-cost labour from the apparel manufacturing industries of South, Southeast and East Asia.

The Fast Fashion Chain

The fashion supply chain spans several industries, from agriculture to manufacturing, logistics and retail (Bailey et al. 2022):

"New season, new styles, buy more, buy cheap, move on, throw away:
the fast fashion industry is feeding the triple planetary crisis, hence jeopardizing the planet's viability"

By triple planetary crisis, we refer to the three most significant and interlinked issues that the planet is currently facing:
climate change, pollution and biodiversity loss.

The Dark Side of Fast Fashion

Affordability, rapid response to trends, and accessibility are traits that attract millions of consumers worldwide to Fast Fashion. However, these characteristics do not accurately reflect the true nature of Fast Fashion, which, in reality, poses significant environmental harm. The exploitation of labour, serious ethical concerns, the nurturing of waste generation and encouragement of a “throw-away consumer mentality, the quality issues and the lack of transparency are just a few of the significant drawbacks associated with the model of Fast Fashion (Hayes 2022). In the framework of this article, we focus on the impact of Fast Fashion on the environment.

The Environmental Impact of Fast Fashion

Fast Fashion is characterised by producing large quantities of clothing at a rapid pace, often using cheap materials and manufacturing techniques. This leads to substantial environmental impact, including the generation of significant textile waste in landfills, excessive water usage and pollution. The globalization of the textile and fashion industry has led to an uneven distribution of these environmental consequences from developing countries – where the textile and clothing production takes place – to the developed countries of the Global North – which essentially consume the products (Niinimaki et al. 2020).

Fast fashion’s environmental impact summarizes into three categories: the use of massive amounts of water and energy, the emission of greenhouse gasses and the harmful use of chemicals. Each stage of the fast fashion chain - from cotton cultivation to textile dyeing and finishing -  requires large amounts of water usage. 3% of global irrigation water is used for textile production, translating into 44 trillion liters of water annually for irrigation. According to the UN Environment Program, the fast fashion industry is responsible for 20% of global wastewater, while textile dyeing is the second largest water polluter globally. Given the increasing water scarcity globally, the current fast fashion model exacerbates the problem.

Regarding carbon emissions, it is estimated that the fast fashion industry releases 1.2 billion tons of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere. According to the UN, the fashion industry is responsible for 8-10% of global emissions, more than the combined aviation and shipping. At the same time, scientists worldwide are warning that by 2030, total greenhouse emissions will increase by 50% (Whalen 2022). High CO2 emissions are associated with textile manufacturing, consumer use and air freight shipping. Fiber type, as well as production method, influence the extent of carbon emissions. For example, natural fibers have a lower carbon footprint than synthetic fibers (Niinimaki et al.2020).

Additionally, more than 15 thousand chemicals are used during textile manufacturing. Among them, agrochemicals leach into the soil, causing a decrease in soil biodiversity and fertility and interrupting biological processes and destroying microorganisms, plants and insects. The fact that approximately 80 per cent of EU-consumed finished textiles are manufactured outside of the EU makes it difficult to estimate the total chemical usage (Niinimaki et al.2020).

Slow Fashion  

What is determined as slow fashion? In this section, our goal is to demystify this term and clarify the significance of slowing down the fashion industry, ensuring a more environmentally friendly legacy for future generations.

The term “Slow Fashion” was first coined by Kate Fletcher, author and design activist. She defines slow fashion as “quality-based rather than time-based, it encourages slower production, combines sustainability with ethics, and invites consumers to invest in well-made and lasting clothes”. In simple terms, slow fashion is the opposite of fast fashion. Slow fashion implies an awareness and approach to fashion that carefully considers the processes and resources required to make clothing. It stands for buying better-quality garments that will last longer, and values fair treatment of people, animals and the planet along the way.

The past few years have witnessed a growing endorsement of slow fashion, driven by consumer demands for elevated sustainability and ethical standards. Research indicates that 19% of top searches related to fast fashion are now focused on environmental concerns, ethics and sustainability. With heightened awareness and increasing popularity, adopting this more deliberate approach to fashion promises benefits for the planet and its inhabitants.

Slow Fashion prompts us to pause and assess whether we genuinely need something new, encouraging us to explore our existing wardrobe for overlooked items that may only require minor repairs. Slow fashion urges us to break away from the mindset of treating clothes as disposable items. Instead, it encourages efforts to repair, upcycle, pass on, or responsibly dispose of garments when they no longer serve their purpose. The slow fashion ethos advocates for the purchase of fewer garments, less frequently, and promotes the preference for second-hand options when possible. Instead of acquiring a multitude of inexpensive polyester tops prone to unraveling after a few wears, conscientious consumers opt for higher quality pieces. These garments are crafted using more sustainable processes and eco-friendly materials, showcasing the artistry of clothing production and honoring the skills of artisans.

Some Slow-Fashion traits are:

• Use of garments made from high quality, lower impact materials (linen for example)
• Garments are more timeless than trendy
• Locally sourced, produced and sold garments

Slow Fashion offers significant benefits, such as:

• Slow Fashion emphasizes sustainable practices, hence reducing the overall environmental footprint of the fashion industry. This includes the use of eco friendly materials, ethical production processes and a focus on longevity, which helps minimize waste and pollution.
• The adoption of sustainable practices in slow fashion, such as using non-toxic dyes and chemicals, helps minimize water pollution. By avoiding harmful substances, slow fashion mitigates the negative impact of ecosystems and water resources.
• Localized and small-scale production results in fewer transportation-related emissions. This contrasts with the globalized production and transportation networks associated with fast fashion.
• Slow Fashion encourages recycling and upcycling of clothing items. This promotes a circular economy where materials are reused or repurposed, reducing the demand for new raw materials and decreasing waste.
• Slow Fashion often involves the use of organic and sustainable farming practices for materials like cotton. These practices are less harmful to ecosystems, promoting biodiversity and minimizing the negative impact on soil and wildlife.
• Some Slow Fashion brands prioritize cruelty-free and ethical practices when it comes to using animal-derived materials, ensuring the well-being of animals in the production process.
• The Slow Fashion movement encourages innovation in sustainable technologies and materials, fostering the development of eco-friendly alternatives within the fashion industry.